Beyond the great English territorials, such as Cheddar and Stilton, are a raft of cheeses and cheesemakers that have taken their inspiration from Europe to redefine the idea of British cheese. The skills and techniques are ancient but these producers are creating some of the most exciting modern cheeses in the world.

The latest estimates calculate more than 450 distinctly named British cheeses, which now puts us ahead of the French. General de Gaulle counted 265, but that was some time ago now and much depends on how you count different varieties.

Some counts may miss out individuals making one cheese because it resembles one made by a producer in the next village. Indeed, I often find customers ask for a cheese that they ate on holiday that probably never leaves the villlage.

I've picked cheeses from the South because the pasture and rainfall there creates more favourable conditions for cheese-making. Also I am a southerner based in Bath, so you must expect a West Country leaning.

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That's not to say fine cheeses aren't produced in the North. I haven’t included Appleby’s Cheshire or Kirkham’s Lancashire but they would be right up there.

Cheddar and Stilton are clearly in anyone's Top 10 and my quality touchstones are:

1. Montgomery Cheddar has the consistency and all round nuttiness that enables it to age without excess acidity so it is superb at 14 months and exceptional at 18 months.

2. Colston Bassett is still the finest Stilton. It has a rich creaminess as well as complexity of flavour and it is this combination that makes it stand out. Stilton by an other name does not smell or taste as sweet.

3. Wigmore A delicate, soft ewes' milk brie-style cheese made by Anne and Andy Wigmore in Berkshire. Unpasteurised and vegetarian. This is a subtle cheese with an unrivalled delicacy of texture and taste. No French ewes' milk cheese can rival its finesse. Rich and unctuous - a delight.

4.Old Smales (also known as Old Winchester) Made in the Gouda style by Mike Smales in Hampshire. At 14 months the cheeses develop a crystalline finish, yet retain the sweetness of the milk. Pasteurised and vegetarian.

Another "one-off" that sits between Parmesan and an old Gouda in texture but with a character entirely its own. Really special - love the "crunch" under the tongue.

5.Sharpham Rustic Jersey milk semi-soft cheese made by Debbie Mumford and Mark Sharman on the Sharpham Estate in Devon. Unpasteurised, vegetarian and unofficially organic.

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