Tomorrow is the start of the Chinese New Year, when the rooster apparently makes way for the pig. Now, I haven’t the slightest clue what each animal signifies in the Chinese zodiac, but the one thing I’m sure of is that there will be lots of elaborate feasting going on in restaurants and households everywhere, so I thought this would be the perfect time to try my hand at some of my favourite Chinese dishes. No ten-course menus here — just familiar dishes that you may have enjoyed at your local Chinese.

Serves 4

This must be one of the most popular Chinese starters. Tender, succulent squid is lightly coated in a Szechuan pepper and flour mixture then deep-fried. As with most seafood, the fresher the squid, the better the dish. Try not to overcook it or it will go rubbery.

500g baby squid, cleaned

1 tsp Szechuan peppercorns

1 tsp black peppercorns

1 tsp Maldon sea salt

5 heaped tbsp cornflour

Groundnut oil, for deep-frying

Leaves from a few sprigs of coriander, to garnish

For the Sweet Chilli Sauce

4 tbsp caster sugar

3 garlic cloves, peeled

3cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

Small handful of coriander leaves

2-3 long red chillies (according to taste), deseeded and roughly chopped

Juice of 1 large lime

1 tbsp fish sauce

1 tbsp light soy sauce

1 Cut the tentacles off the squid and set aside. Open out the squid tubes and lightly score with a crisscross pattern. Pat dry with kitchen paper, wrap in clingfilm and chill until ready to cook.

2 In a dry pan, lightly toast the Szechuan peppercorns, black peppercorns and sea salt until fragrant, then coarsely grind the mixture using a pestle and mortar. Combine half the spice mix with the cornflour and set aside.

3 For the sweet chilli sauce, place the sugar in a small, heavy-based saucepan with 3-4 tablespoons of water. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then bring to the boil for 5-8 minutes until reduced and thickened.

4 In the meantime, place the garlic, ginger, coriander leaves, chillies and lime juice in a food processor and whiz to a coarse paste. When the sugar syrup has reached a light golden caramel colour, carefully add the spice paste, standing well back as the caramel will sputter and spit. Stir in the fish and soy sauces. Return to the boil and immediately take the pan off the heat. Leave to cool completely before spooning into small, individual dipping bowls.

5 Remove the squid from the fridge. Heat a wok with 5cm of groundnut oil until a piece of bread dropped into the oil sizzles vigorously. (If you are using a deep-fryer, the temperature should reach 180C.) Working in batches, coat the squid with the peppercorn and cornflour mixture, shake off the excess and add to the oil. Deep-fry until lightly golden and crisp, making sure not to overcrowd the wok. Drain on kitchen paper and repeat with the rest of the squid.

6 Sprinkle lightly with the reserved pepper mixture, if you wish, and garnish with the coriander leaves. Serve immediately, with the individual bowls of sweet chilli dipping sauce on the side.

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